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Service 12 / 16

Concrete

Real Deal Builders pours and installs concrete driveways, walkways, steps, slabs, and patios, and builds retaining walls. Concrete is the material people assume is simple, and it is the one where the preparation matters most. Concrete does not crack randomly, it cracks where nobody told it where to crack, and it settles where the base under it was never compacted. We build the subgrade and base course first, place reinforcement so it sits inside the slab rather than on the ground, cut control joints on schedule at the correct depth and spacing, and slope every surface so water runs away from your foundation instead of toward it.

Worker screeding a freshly poured concrete slab flat with a power screed before finishing
Typical timeline
Days to a couple of weeks
Trades we manage
Tear out, grade, base, form, pour, finish, cut joints
Permits
Sometimes for driveway approach and tall walls
Typical scope
A walkway to a full driveway, patio, and retaining wall

Behind the work

How this comes together

01

Why concrete cracks, and what prevents it

Concrete shrinks as it cures, and it will crack. The job of a good installation is to decide in advance where that crack happens, and to make sure the slab is supported evenly so it does not crack anywhere else. That starts under the slab, with a subgrade that is compacted rather than loose fill, and a base course of crushed rock that is spread and compacted to a consistent thickness. A slab poured over soft or uneven ground will settle and break no matter how good the concrete mix was.

Reinforcement matters, and so does where it sits. Wire mesh or rebar lying on the ground does nothing, because it needs to be inside the slab to do its job. We support it on chairs so it stays at the correct depth while the pour happens. Then the control joints get cut, on schedule and at the right depth and spacing, so the shrinkage crack forms neatly inside a joint where you will never notice it rather than wandering across the middle of your new driveway.

02

Concrete, pavers, or block

Poured concrete is the most economical for large flat areas like a driveway, it is the simplest to clean, and it gives a continuous surface with no joints to weed. Pavers cost more to install but they read richer, they handle ground movement better because the joints flex, and a damaged section can be lifted and reset rather than saw cut and patched. Natural stone is the most expensive and the most distinctive.

Retaining walls are their own decision, driven by height, what is behind the wall, and drainage. A wall over a certain height needs engineering and a permit, and every retaining wall needs drainage behind it, because the thing that pushes a retaining wall over is almost never the soil, it is the water trapped in the soil. We build them with the drainage behind the wall rather than hoping it never rains hard.

What this service includes

  • Concrete driveways, aprons, and parking pads
  • Concrete walkways, paths, steps, and landings
  • Concrete slabs for sheds, ADUs, additions, and equipment
  • Retaining walls in block, poured concrete, and segmental systems
  • Subgrade preparation, base course, and proper compaction
  • Reinforcement placed on chairs so it sits inside the slab
  • Control joints cut on schedule at correct depth and spacing
  • Grading and slope so water drains away from the house
  • Tear out and haul away of failed or cracked existing concrete

Recent work

Concrete in the Santa Clarita Valley

Concrete being placed from a pump hose onto a prepared and reinforced slab area
Finisher hand troweling the surface of fresh concrete smooth along a formed edge

Working with us

From first call to final walkthrough

  1. 01

    Free walk

    We come to your home or site, talk through what you want to change, and ask the questions that shape an accurate scope.

  2. 02

    Written quote

    A detailed, honest, written quote lands in your inbox. You know the scope and the number before any work begins.

  3. 03

    Trades in order

    We sequence the trades so each one sets up the next, with one point of contact holding the whole project together.

  4. 04

    Punch and walkthrough

    We walk every finish with you, correct anything on the list, and do not close the job until it is done rather than promised for later.

Common questions

Frequently asked

The questions we hear most often, answered plainly. If your question is not here, call us and we will answer it the same way.

Why did my concrete crack?

Concrete shrinks as it cures and will always crack somewhere. The question is whether the cracks were planned. Cracks that wander across the middle of a slab usually mean control joints were missing, cut too late, or cut too shallow. Cracks with one side sitting lower than the other usually mean the base under the slab was not compacted.

What are control joints and why do they matter?

They are the grooves cut into a slab shortly after it is placed. They create a deliberate weak line so the shrinkage crack forms down inside the joint where it is hidden. They have to be cut soon after the pour, at roughly a quarter of the slab thickness deep, and spaced correctly for the thickness. Skipping any of that is why so much residential concrete looks broken within a few years.

How thick should a concrete driveway be?

Four inches is standard for a residential driveway carrying cars and light trucks. Six inches is the right call where heavier vehicles park, like an RV, a work truck, or a trailer. Thickness is only part of it, since a thick slab over a poor base still fails.

Do you install pavers as well as poured concrete?

Yes. We install concrete pavers and natural stone for driveways, walkways, and patios. Pavers cost more up front, handle ground movement better because the joints flex, and let a damaged section be lifted and reset instead of saw cut and patched.

Do you build retaining walls?

Yes, in block, poured concrete, and segmental wall systems. Walls above a certain height need engineering and a permit, and we handle that. Every wall we build gets drainage behind it, because trapped water is what pushes a retaining wall over, not the soil itself.

Can you tear out and replace my old driveway?

Yes. We break out and haul away the existing concrete, correct and recompact the base underneath, and pour new. Replacing the surface without fixing the base just buys you the same cracks again on a slower schedule.

How long before I can drive on new concrete?

Foot traffic is usually fine after a day or two. Vehicles should stay off for about a week, and heavy vehicles longer. Concrete keeps gaining strength for weeks after it looks finished, so the wait is real rather than cautious.

Will you make sure water drains away from my house?

Yes. Every flatwork surface gets a slope, and that slope runs away from the foundation. Concrete poured flat or sloping back toward the house sends water against your foundation, which is a far more expensive problem than the concrete.

Can you match my existing concrete?

Closely, but rarely exactly. New concrete cures lighter and changes over the first year, and older concrete has weathered. Where an exact match matters we usually suggest replacing a full section to a natural joint line rather than patching, so the difference reads as intentional.

How much does concrete work cost?

Cost is driven by square footage, thickness, how much tear out and base work is needed, access for the truck, and any finish beyond a standard broom finish. Stamped and colored concrete costs more than plain. We price against a written scope for the actual area.

Planning a project like this?

When you are ready for a number on your own project, we will walk it with you and put the price in writing.